Blackwork embroidery probably began in the Middle East - some of the earliest recognizeable finds are pieces from 14th-15th
century Coptic tombs. The technique journeyed into Europe - in the baggage of Crusaders or pilgrims? along
the trade routes? - and took root in almost every land, but nowhere did it flower as wildly as it did in 16th-century England...
Legend has it that Catherine of Aragon brought blackwork to England. It was most likely there well
before, but there's little doubt fastination with the pretty Spanish princess added popularity to "Spanisshe
Stitche", and the new fashion at the time for showing more body linen added impetus.
From
the earliest painted evidence - around the 1480s in Spain - to the new fashion for polychrome embroideries and lace that appeared
around the turn of the 17th century, blackwork's first heyday lasted a little more than a hundred years. It's
come round again, though, in the hands of history buffs and modern stitchers all creating - and re-creating-Beautiful Things.
| "The Young Virgin", 1632 de Zurbaran |
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| Metropolitan Museum of Art, NYC |
Hi! My name is Liadain, and I am a blackwork nerd. I design it, stitch
it, research it, collect it, teach it
(At least as well as I can from my hermitage here in The Wildernesse). Until
recently, I had one of those little free pages, on which I shared the occasional freebie pattern, until the host put up the
"pay it or move it" sign.
I began to think about what to do next.
Like many of
you, I have "presence" all over the Web - photo sites, blogs, social sites, newsgroups. It occurred to me
that maybe now is the time to get one case for all my needles...
No doubt suffering delusions
of grandeur, I picture one nice fat umbrella site where stitchers new to blackwork can find all the references I wish I'd
had when I first picked up a tapestry needle (do you have any idea how hard it is to get your Holbein stitch nice and even
with a bone needle and a hank of mastodon sinew?)
but never saw, and maybe some new inspiration and company for experienced
stitchers as well. I'm constantly hunting for new and exciting things to share, so the invitation's
open - if you have great blackwork-related links, tutorials, articles, photos, whatever - please come and share!
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| Unfinished sleeve panel |
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| original design |
Why Practical Blackwork?
Because it IS, when you discard all the Victorian "Ruuuules" and get back to the basics. Blackwork can
be - and often was, in "period" - as simple as Holbein and back stitches on linen, or as fabulously fancy
as the coifs and nightcaps preserved today in museums, but either extreme had some things in common - mostly short,
hard-wearing stitches, a visual impact that could help disguise dirt and stains in an age before "Spray and Wash",
a simplicity of materials needed. Blackwork was the perfect "amateur" technique - a young lady wishing to
make a gift for her beloved (Remember "Scarborough Fair"?) could adapt an image from one of the herbals, bestiaries,
or other printed books then coming into widespread use, even if she'd never seen a pattern book, and create something
beautiful with little more than needle and thread.
It can be just a simple today. You
don't need fancy equipment or expensive materials - you can use anything from the finest silk threads and heirloom "lawn"
all the way up to burlap and knitting worsteds to create your own Beautiful Things. I hope you find the right inspiration
somewhere in these pages!
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